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 Stealing Doug H's Idea - DIY Guitar Pedal
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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 2:14 am    Post subject: Stealing Doug H's Idea - DIY Guitar Pedal Reply with quote

So after seeing Doug's thread, it got me motivated. So, I am going to attempt to build the pedal as well.

A couple of months ago I did a short electronics prototyping course. I haven't done anything since, which means I have forgotten how to use the software, and the hardware for building the PCBs. So if nothing else, this project will force me to remember how to do all this.

The first step was to recreate the schematic in Eagle so I can use it to do the board layout. Now the Barber Electronics page says they don't want people recreating and publishing the schematic, which is fair enough. But anyway, here is a picture of the current board layout, there are probably some components that will change (packages) and moved around, we'll see after I have bought all the bits.

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Doug H Offline
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Righteous! software only has 14 pin ics?

I saw someone post a strip board layout somewhere so your not alone.
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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 1:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The IC is actually a quad op-amp, LM324. Honestly I have no idea when it comes to opamps, but according to a guy at uni (electronic engineer) these are quite common. Of course, I'm interested in other opinions.
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Doug H Offline
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried a few as I mentioned in the other thread. a Bur brown, a TL072, settled on a jrc 4558d for now. The jrc is the modern version of what was in the legebndary tube screamer.

They're cheap unless you are getting a nos part. You typically buy a few at a time. Your local electronics shop should have a selection of these.

They have 8 pins, you want to use a socket so you can change them in and out on a whim.
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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 20, 2009 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah thanks for the help Doug. A socket does sound like a better idea. However, the pins on the 8pin opamps (the ones you mentioned) don't line up with the pins on the LM324. Which means I have to redo a large chunk of the board layout! Sad

Oh well, its not like I have the parts to make this yet anyway.
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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I redid the board layout. Removed the 14 pin IC and replaced it with an 8 pin socket. Also added solder pads and necessary resistor for an LED power indicator:

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Doug H Offline
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...and?

It's a killer pedal, How'd it turn out for ya?
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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2010 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You wouldn't believe this Doug, I've been so caught up with other stuff the pedal kindof got left by the wayside.

However, I ordered all the components I need from Jaycar last night, so I should have them by the end of the week, so I can put this thing together.
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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, after breaking a drill bit last night, I had another go at cutting the PCB this morning. It's all done, so I might solder it all up tomorrow. WIP Pics:



The T-Tech doing its thing.



The cut PCB.
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Doug H Offline
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 04, 2010 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that llooks awesome, just etching into the copper board, too cool. Upi could actualy do that by hand if you wanted to I bet.
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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 1:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Minor update: Everything is soldered onto the board except for 3 capacitors that somehow got left on my desk at uni!
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pathdoc2 Offline
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks pretty darn cool Michael.
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Doug H Offline
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

so, how'd it turn out?
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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 3:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, if you haven't figured it out, my projects have a tendancy to drag on, and on.

Anyway, here's where we are right now. Board is soldered up:



And solder side. Note it has got a bit dirty:



Went to Jaycar today and bought the last of the case hardware. The case itself is just a cheap aluminium enclosure, which will be painted. Here's the hardware:



And here's a test fit in the case, after I drilled the holes for it all:



The case itself is sitting outside right now after the first coat of paint. I would solder the hookup wires for everything, but I really can't be bothered making a mess this late.

Hopefully this will finally be finished by the end of the week!
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Lt. Bob Offline
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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking good man.

So instead of etching the PCB that machine essentially routed it?

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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks!

Yes, that is exactly what it does. You make the layout in Eagle or whatever program you want. You then hand the gerber files to the software that came with the mill. Hit go, and it will tell you which drill/router/contour bit to put in, it goes ahead and drills all the holes, then routes around the tracks to isolate them.

The only tricky part from the user's perspective is getting the depth right when it routes the tracks. Since the cutting bit has an angle, the deeper you go, the thinner your tracks will end up. This isn't a problem for something like this, but if you intend to surface mount a microcontroller, it can be a real pain.

So now the more pressing question: Green writing on black, or black writing on green? The green I bought is something around Boss Phase Shifter green.
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Lt. Bob Offline
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PostPosted: Mon May 10, 2010 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well ..... green on black if the letters are gonna be big enough or there's enough of them to get s good amount of green on it. Otherwise the other way.
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stainless Offline
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 7:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that's sweet!

will you make the PCB available???

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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice tool for making PCB's! What purpose did you buy it for? Damn that's handy. I really hate etching those things so mostly I end up soldering it together on one of those prototyping soldering boards.

One thing on your first PCB though, if you only use 2 opamps of a quad package, you should wire the inputs of the opamps you're not using to ground to prevent oscillations that could result in an unstable circuit.

How did you mount the pcb in the pedal? I either leave some space for mounting wholes, or use a box that has slits on the sides in which I can mount the board...

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MichaelM Offline
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is a T-Tech PCB Mill. It is owned by the lab I am in. We (others more than me) do a lot of circuit building and electronics prototyping, and the mill makes the process a lot faster. Especially if you find you've made a mistake in your design, you can just tweak it, then mill a new board. It was expensive, as are the cutting bits, etc, but it is owned by the university, not me.

If I didn't have the mill available to me I would probably just build it from something like this.

On the first design, I just asked someone here in the lab what opamp to use. He directed me to that quad opamp package. I didn't really know what I was doing. Anyway, I haven't gone any further with the early design, and now have the dual op-amp package mounted in a socket. Nice tip about wiring the inputs though.

As for mounting, yeah that unfortunately is something I didn't really think about. At this stage, it will probably be affixed to the base plate of the case with double sided tape. I admit, leaving room in the corners of the board for mounting holes is a more elegant solution. Embarassed

@stainless: Probably not. Simply because Barber Electronics have asked people not to:

Quote:
We are providing a schematic for the DIY community only, this page can be linked to from DIY sites, but please do not simply link to the schematic, lift the schematic from the Barber site, or redraw the schematic in any way. If we can respect the link to Barber DIY page only format, then we can keep the DIY page open


If it was my own design then I would put up the Eagle files for everyone. I would actually like to try and do my own designs of things in future projects, but don't really know enough yet. So, that is a no for this project, but a yes for hypothetical future projects. Wink
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stainless Offline
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael

fair enough! I must have missed the part about it being their design!

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Uncle Roel Offline
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PostPosted: Tue May 11, 2010 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MichaelM wrote:
If I didn't have the mill available to me I would probably just build it from something like this.


That's what I'm using. Occasionally I've etched some boards, but it's too much trouble.

MichaelM wrote:
As for mounting, yeah that unfortunately is something I didn't really think about. At this stage, it will probably be affixed to the base plate of the case with double sided tape. I admit, leaving room in the corners of the board for mounting holes is a more elegant solution. Embarassed

You can always stick it in with hot glue. When assembling electronics, hot glue is my best friend. For mounting anything really, I mostly use plastic cases though. But I don't make stomp boxes either since I quit playing guitar long time ago...

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